Grafis
Patternmaking of the highest level

GRAFIS-Software is demonstrating patternmaking of the highest level at the Texprocess in Frankfurt. Along with the basic principles of operation, GRAFIS will also present some of the major new key advancements to be expected in the next version. It is specifically these new developments that facilitate the creation and application of company specific drafting process modules.

The key distinctive features of the CAD-Software GRAFIS are still the recorded construction steps and the interdependency of the pattern pieces. The foundation for pattern construction in GRAFIS is the standard measurement charts for grading size sets or individual measurement charts for made-to-measure production. The basic blocks in GRAFIS are a set of recorded drafting instructions that are continually recalculated using the assigned measurement charts. The basic blocks can be altered by changing the measurement charts or adjusting other parameters.

Shirts, blouses, dresses, jackets and coats can all be created by adjusting the parameters of a basic bodice block. The parameters are adjusted interactively on the computer monitor using an option menu to toggle options and/or in the drag areas by dragging interactive points or handles. The adjusted parameters are referred to as a ‚shape’ and can also be saved as such.

To speed up the drafting process, interactive front and back bodice tools are available. The fit of the basic block is automatically transferred to these tools which can then quickly be interactively adjusted. One of the front part tools contains the following six style variations: a vertical separating seam from the shoulder, a princess seam or a princess seam with bust dart, each variation with or without a side panel. One of the back part tools contains the style variations: a vertical separating seam from the shoulder or a princess seam also each with or without a side panel. There are three front part tools and three back part tools which can be combined with one another to allow for a large variation of styles (see illustration: Interactive front part tool for a jacket with a princess seam). Other interactive tools include style variations for the front edge for example.

A new development is used to draft a yoke pattern piece. The lines for the yoke construction are inserted using an interactive insert tool which automatically creates a small screen shot of the insert object clicked. This creates a link between the construction piece and the yoke pattern piece. This step has also been recorded. After the yoke pattern piece has been completed, this link can be dissolved and the yoke pattern piece can be saved as a prepared drafting process module. For example, it could later be used in the construction of a mens sports jacket. The small screen shots indicate which objects are to be inserted to attach the yoke to the new style i.e. the mens sport jacket.

The insert tools allow for the development of many different drafting process modules with which highly efficient module kits can be created. The user can develop and maintain the module kits as required. Company specific pattern drafting knowledge is stored in the module kits which are then available to all pattern making staff. A complete jacket style can be constructed using a module kit.

Benefits of module kits
• Pattern makers and technicians can together standardise the drafting process
• Pattern drafting mistakes can be minimised
• Pattern development time and effort are reduced
• Company specific pattern drafting knowledge can be made available to external development companies
• Additional information can be registered as required (label, measurements, parameter etc.)

Styles created in GRAFIS can be graded using standard measurements. The same style can also be used for individual customer measurements. The shapes of the basic block, the lapel collar, the sleeve or the front edge can all be adjusted as required. These adjustments are automatically transferred from the style pieces to the production pattern pieces. Proven styles can easily be implemented into the MTM-system „una cum alqo“.  All pattern drafting steps are recorded in GRAFIS. The steps are recalculated using the assigned measurement charts. All style created in GRAFIS are immediately gradable. The styles can be calculated with standard measurement charts or with those of individual customers. Due to the piece dependency, all production pattern pieces are automatically updated. The creation of highly efficient individual module kits is possible. In this manner it is possible to catalogue company specific pattern drafting knowledge.